Writing in NY Times, Kari Molvar advises on best skin care
routine.
She explains that skin-care routine has three main steps: Cleansing
— Washing your face. Toning — Balancing the skin. Moisturizing — Hydrating
and softening the skin.
The goal of any skin-care routine is to tune up
your complexion so it’s functioning at its best, and also troubleshoot or
target any areas you want to work on. “Beauty routines are an opportunity to
notice changes within yourself,” says the San Francisco skin-care specialist
Kristina Holey. As your skin needs shifts with age, so will your products.
Still, she adds, “it’s not about creating perfection.” Allow these
three steps to become your daily ritual that fortifies your skin and grounds
your day.
The science behind
skin-care products has come a long way but there’s still no such thing as an
instant fix — you need time to reap the benefits, says Dr.
Rachel Nazarian, a Manhattan dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group.
“Results are only seen through consistent use,” she explains. Generally,
aim to use a product over at least six weeks, once or twice daily, to notice a
difference.
Tip: With any skin-care product, apply in order
of consistency — from thinnest to
thickest. For example, cleanser, toner (if you use it), serum, and then
moisturizer.
Cleansing
Washing your face is the most basic and essential
step of any routine, says the New York City dermatologist Dr. Carlos Charles.
“Our skin comes in contact with environmental pollutants, dirt and other
factors each day that should be gently removed.” Wash twice a day,
morning and night, to avoid clogged pores, dullness and acne.
FIND YOUR FACIAL CLEANSER
The right formula
cleanses your skin without stripping essential, healthy oils. Take it easy with
exfoliating scrubs (use once a week) and avoid those with crushed walnut shells
or abrasive ingredients.
WHAT DOES NON-COMEDOGENIC MEAN EXACTLY?
This term frequently appears on product labels
and is used by skin-care experts but not always defined in simple, clear
language. Here’s a quick explanation: If a product claims to be
non-comedogenic it means that it shouldn’t clog pores or trigger acne —
either by occluding the skin, blocking glands or irritating the hair follicle.
The claim is not regulated by the F.D.A., however, and many companies do their
own internal tests to determine whether a product should be considered
comedogenic or not. (Some common known comedogenic ingredients are coconut oil
and cocoa butter.) Typically, the fewer ingredients a product has, the easier
it is to determine if it will cause any reactions.
HOW TO USE TONER
For many, the word
“toner” brings to mind stinging astringents from the ’80s. “The original was an
alcohol-based product that was used to dry up oily skin and remove any leftover
dirt following cleansing,” Dr. Nazarian says. Today’s formulas, however, have evolved.
Think of them as supplements — these thin liquids deliver an extra shot of
nutrients, helping the other products in your regimen absorb better, while
still balancing your complexion. Most experts, the New York City
aesthetician Jordana Mattioli says,
consider toner to be optional: “It can be a good way to add in specific
ingredients that you may not have in your other products or add another layer
of skin-replenishment.” If you have the time and inclination, here are some
hero ingredients to look for:
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids to gently remove dead skin cells that can clog
pores, improve sun-damaged skin and minimize dullness.
Hyaluronic acid to improve hydration, seal in dewiness and plump skin to subtly
treat fine lines.
Rose water and green tea to calm irritation and reduce redness with an anti-inflammatory
effect.
Vitamin E and C to fight daily exposure to free radicals that can age your skin.
WHAT IS TONER?
“Toners should be done
after cleansing and before putting on anything else,”Mattioli says. The traditional application
method is to saturate a cotton pad and pass it over your face. But, as Mattioli
points out, “You end up losing a lot of product.”
Tip: “Applying toner with clean hands is the most efficient. Just
pour a few drops in your palm, then swipe it on.” Or if you prefer, you can
pull apart a cotton pad “so it’s not so thick before putting toner on it,”
Mattioli advises. Most formulas can be used morning and night, but you
might want to use those with exfoliating acids only at night or every other
day.
Serums
These are powerful skin allies. Filled
with concentrated doses of active ingredients, these elixirs can mitigate a
number of issues, from dark spots to wrinkles. “Even if you don’t have any
specific issues, everyone still needs a general antioxidant serum in the
morning to protect from daily aggressors. While there are “limitless options”
for ingredients, Dr. Nazarian singles out her hardworking favorites: To handle
specific issues, look for these products:
Hyaluronic acid to seal in hydration and strengthen the barrier function
(the top layer of your skin) to prevent moisture loss.
Vitamin C to
help brighten dull skin and decrease dark spots with continued use.
Retinol, vitamin B3, peptides to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin,
proteins in the body that help prevent lines and skin sagging.
Colloidal sulfur, niacinamide to calm redness and irritation by decreasing inflammation,
and improve acne with its antimicrobial effects.
If you have multiple
concerns, you might want to use multiple formulas. “I recommend treating different areas with
different products,” Mattioli says. “Maybe you’ll use a vitamin C serum all
over but then dab on [another] for hyperpigmentation on just a few spots.” Just
run any combination by your dermatologist to avoid any potential
reactions.
To save time, don’t try
mixing a serum into your moisturizer. This “lessens the ability of the serum to absorb
effectively,” Dr. Nazarian says. “Products should be applied one by one.”
Not all serums are applied with the same
frequency. “This varies with
the ingredients,” Dr. Nazarian says. “I prefer antioxidants in the morning
because they give you additional protection from the environment, and most of
us don’t use enough sunscreen as is,” Mattioli says. Yet certain ingredients
are best when slathered on at night. For example: “Retinols are not sun-stable
and will degrade if applied in daytime,” Dr. Nazarian explains. Bottom line:
Read the label instructions carefully.
Moisturizing
The most basic function of a moisturizer is to
hydrate and soften the skin. “Essentially, moisturizers assist in preventing
water loss through the outer layers of skin,” Dr. Charles explains. “They can
also complement the naturally found protective oils and other building blocks
within the skin, such as ceramides.” This is one product that doctors
recommend using year-round, for all skin types. “Skin naturally loses
the ability to retain moisture as we age,” Dr. Nazarian insists, “and daily
activities, such as washing, can strip natural hydrators from the surface.”
HOW TO PICK A MOISTURIZER
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DAY AND NIGHT CREAM
Creams you apply in the morning are equipped to
protect your skin from the environmental aggressors you’ll face when you leave
the house—many contain antioxidants to minimize pollution-based free radicals
and sunscreen to shield you from ultraviolet radiation. They typically have a
lightweight consistency. Night creams, on the other hand, focusing on repairing
any damage you might have picked up with ingredients like retinol to speed
cellular turnover and counteract dark spots. These creams also replenish
moisture levels, which naturally dip in the evening, with emollients that often
create a rich, thick texture.
EYE CREAMS, EXPLAINED
“The skin around the eyes is quite thin and
delicate, and more likely to react to irritating ingredients than other areas,”
Dr. Nazarian says. “Therefore, dermatologists typically recommend an eye cream
that considers the potential sensitivity and has more tolerable concentrations
of active ingredients.”
For undereye bags and inflammation, caffeine,
peptides and hyaluronic acid can be soothing, Mattioli says. “Dark circles can
be due to visible veins or actual discoloration common in darker skin tones,”
she says. “Look for brightening ingredients like vitamin C, kojic acid and
niacinamide.” Insider tip: Steer clear of strong
retinols (which can sting and create redness) and fragrance, to avoid any eye
irritation.
Protect With
Sunscreen
All of the experts we consulted unanimously
agreed on one thing: that sunscreen is, hands down, the most crucial
skin-care product. It’s “of utmost importance as part of your
year-round regimen,” Dr. Charles points out. “Daily and consistent sunscreen
use helps to prevent the development of fine lines and wrinkles, textural
imperfections, and changes in the appearance of pores over time. More
importantly, daily sunscreen use can help to prevent the formation of certain skin
cancers.” To make it easy to remember, experts recommend using a daily
moisturizer with a built-in broad spectrum SPF of at least 30.
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